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Food

A New Destination for Chinese Food: Not Flushing, but Forest Hills

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 27, 2018 - 11:21am
A corner of Queens better known for delis and pizza parlors has added a critical mass of new (and creative) Chinese restaurants.
Categories: Food

Restaurant Review: Seafood From Two Tapas Masters at Saint Julivert Fisherie

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 27, 2018 - 11:20am
At their new Brooklyn restaurant, the chefs Alex Raij and Eder Montero leave Spain to fish in other waters.
Categories: Food

A Harbor for Fish Lovers in Brooklyn

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 27, 2018 - 11:07am
At Saint Julivert Fisherie, the chefs behind a string of well-loved Spanish restaurants experiment with seafood ideas from all over.
Categories: Food

Love Those Crunchy Bits

Planet Cheese - November 27, 2018 - 11:00am

Antwerp wasn’t on my bucket list until I tasted this gorgeous Belgian Gouda. Now I must go. The cheese is made at a creamery about an hour away, then sent to Antwerp for aging. The family that matures the Gouda (and many other fine European cheeses) also runs a cheese shop in Antwerp that some say is the best in Europe. The shop stocks hundreds of cheeses and supplies Belgium’s finest restaurants. The famous De Koninck brewery is practically next door and provides the cheese-aging space. Field trip, anyone?

For the American market, the Gouda has been rechristened OG Kristal. (The Belgian name is a challenge for English speakers.) If you love those crunchy bits that turn up in some well-aged cheeses (they’re protein crystals), you will fall for this 20-pound amber beauty. It has crystals galore, plus a luscious, dense creaminess that makes you think you are eating a salted caramel. The importer describes the flavor as “boozy cherries, fudge and butterscotch.” Can you resist?

OG stands for Old Groendal, a reference to the Groendal company that makes the cheese. But the important word is Kristal. Dairy scientists still don’t entirely understand the formation of internal cheese crystals, but they seem to occur when enzymes break down the cheese’s protein into amino acids, one of which is tyrosine. When there’s enough tyrosine, it crystallizes. That’s the nickel answer.

Only Cheese: fine Antwerp shop

You don’t have to understand the chemistry to enjoy OG Kristal, an 18-month-old Gouda made from pasteurized milk from a single farm. The Van Tricht family—father-and-son affineurs (cheese-aging experts)—store their cheeses in De Koninck’s former bottling facility, now divided into eight aging rooms with all the temperature and humidity controls needed to mature cheeses of many types. The family’s retail shop, Only Cheese, has a rotating selection of De Koninck brews on tap. American cheese merchants: steal that idea.

I didn’t know any of this when I photographed OG Kristal (above) with a nutty dessert sherry. I stand by that pairing, but now I’m intrigued by the idea of enjoying this Gouda with a rich, spicy, high-alcohol Belgian ale, like a dubbel or quad. Rochefort is a personal favorite, and I’m pretty sure this experiment is in my immediate future.

Look for OG Kristal at these retailers.

Love Bread?

Me, too. Bread with cheese? Even better. Dark pumpernickel, crusty baguettes, raisin brioche, walnut levain, seedy seven-grain loaves…all of them shine with cheese but not with the same cheese. Join me for a seriously fun evening exploring the love match between bread and cheese at Petaluma’s beautiful new Artisan Baking Center. Champion baker Craig Ponsford (Gold Medal winner at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie) will be making our seven breads. I’ll bring the cheeses. Wine and beer, of course. A night to remember!

Bread & Cheese: Seven Perfect Pairings
Thursday, December 6
Artisan Baking Center
Petaluma
6 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Details and reservations

Categories: Food

City Kitchen: A Chicken That Finds Its Flavor in the Wild

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 6:12pm
Dried wild mushrooms lend this comforting braise its depth and character.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: A New Japanese Marketplace Opens in Brooklyn

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 5:54pm
Japan Village in Industry City, in Sunset Park, features a grocery as well as a collection of casual dining spots.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: This Lobster Roll Is a Bargain. Really.

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 5:43pm
At Luke’s Lobster, Petrossian caviar and lobster meet on a buttery roll, for a price that is less than a tin of the good stuff.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: A Sip of French Tradition With a Hint of New Orleans

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 5:40pm
Grand Brulot, an aged digestif made with coffee and V.S.O.P. Cognac, is easy to savor.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: Chocolate Bars Dressed for the Party

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 5:36pm
These slabs of Italian chocolate are topped with dried fruits and nuts. Serve them to guests or gift-wrap them for friends.
Categories: Food

Front Burner: Preserved Lemons in Paste Form

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 5:21pm
New York Shuk’s latest offering is Moroccan-style salted lemons, puréed and ready for sauces, dips and dressings.
Categories: Food

Creamy, Hearty and (Sort of) Virtuous

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 4:43pm
Alison Roman makes a spiced chickpea stew with greens and coconut milk that finds the nexus of comfort food and health food.
Categories: Food

On ‘Bureka Tuesdays,’ They Make Pastries the Way Their Grandmothers Did

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 4:22pm
Members of a synagogue in Atlanta come together to make the savory pocket pastries to sell at Hanukkah, as they have for decades.
Categories: Food

The Story of a Thing: The Chef Behind ‘Salt Fat Acid Heat’ on Her Most Prized Possession

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 2:41pm
Samin Nosrat recalls the time she crossed the country to help a friend host an unforgettable night — and received a one-of-a-kind keepsake.
Categories: Food

The Secret to That Bright-Red Drink? Little Bugs

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 2:10pm
Campari stopped using a traditional dye made from insects, but makers of American aperitivos are taking it back up.
Categories: Food

A Good Appetite: Brownies for Those Who Live to Lick the Bowl

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 11:53am
Olive oil and a touch of sea salt make this recipe both gooey and slightly savory.
Categories: Food

Wine School: Is There a Role for Tawny Port in the Digital Age?

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 11:16am
The proverbial after-dinner drink doesn’t get much attention nowadays. It’s one thing to recognize its qualities. It’s another to find a place for it.
Categories: Food

Wine School: You Can Teach an Old-Vine Grape New Tricks

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 11:16am
In California, where a handful of grapes dominates the industry, explorations with carignan yield potential for wonderful, unpretentious wines.
Categories: Food

What to Cook: What to Cook Right Now

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 26, 2018 - 10:30am
Move past Thanksgiving, and make what you crave: spicy chicken diavolo, spicy beef stir-fry, or fish tacos.
Categories: Food

What to Cook: What to Cook This Week

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 25, 2018 - 10:30am
Celebrate your release from the tyranny of turkey and stuffing: Make risotto with sausage and parsley, a spicy peanut and pumpkin soup and soy-basted chicken.
Categories: Food

Times Insider: A Vegetarian Reporter Explores a Hunting Dilemma

NYTimes Dining and Wine - November 24, 2018 - 4:53pm
During my week with a group of conservationist elk hunters, I put aside my personal dietary restrictions to better understand their perspective.
Categories: Food