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Food

City Kitchen: A Dish That Only Looks Highly Dramatic

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 19, 2019 - 11:40am
This vegetarian bowl, packed with glutinous black rice, earthy mushrooms and wilted greens, is hearty enough for a main.
Categories: Food

A Good Appetite: This Pie Is the Best Kind of Tart

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 19, 2019 - 11:21am
Using tangy tamarind paste in place of Key lime juice gives this ultra-creamy dessert a rich, fruity depth.
Categories: Food

What to Cook: What to Cook This Weekend

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 19, 2019 - 10:30am
These are busy times, with Passover underway and Easter on Sunday, but make XO sauce this weekend. It’ll pay dividends.
Categories: Food

A Young Chef, and a Stunning Comeback

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 19, 2019 - 9:55am
Kwame Onwuachi vaulted from troubled youth to overnight success to failure with a fancy restaurant in Washington, D.C. Now he’s drawing attention with a new book and approach.
Categories: Food

Tacos. Tequila. Telenovelas. Nairobi Embraces Its Mexican Soul.

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 19, 2019 - 12:14am
In the Kenyan capital, Mexican culture is everywhere, from television to music to restaurants. A primer on the latest global mash-up.
Categories: Food

This Genetic Mutation Makes People Feel Full — All the Time

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 18, 2019 - 7:55pm
Two new studies confirm that weight control is often the result of genetics, not willpower.
Categories: Food

Here’s Soylent’s New Product. It’s Food.

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 18, 2019 - 4:26pm
The Silicon Valley food-drink of choice is now a ‘complete nutrition platform.’ The beverage plot thickens.
Categories: Food

Restaurant Review: Ramen Without Broth? A Chef Doubles Down on a Sidelined Dish

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 18, 2019 - 12:58pm
At Niche, a new restaurant on the Lower East Side, Shigetoshi Nakamura specializes in mazemen, a ramen style that has been slow to catch on locally.
Categories: Food

Hungry City: A Mom-and-Son Source for Portuguese Pastries

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 18, 2019 - 11:50am
Delicate pastéis de nata and other treats at Joey Bats Café on the Lower East Side.
Categories: Food

The Pour: 12 Wines Under $12: How Low Can You Go and Still Find Values?

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 18, 2019 - 11:37am
The quest for exciting bottles gets trickier as the price drops. But you can still find some gems with a $12 limit.
Categories: Food

A Piece of Lisbon on the Lower East Side

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 18, 2019 - 10:49am
Joey Bats Café, a Portuguese spot run by a mother-and-son team, offers pastries and savory snacks.
Categories: Food

Meanwhile: Forget the Easter Bunny. Let’s Celebrate the Easter Bug.

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 18, 2019 - 6:00am
It takes the goop of hundeds of thousands of lac bugs to create the coating on your favorite shiny candy.
Categories: Food

The 212: From the Purveyors of New York’s Best Mozzarella, a New Cafe

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 17, 2019 - 5:42pm
The family behind Di Palo’s, the century-old Italian specialty food store, sets its sights on the next generation.
Categories: Food

What to Cook: Recipes for Now

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 17, 2019 - 10:40am
Matzo lasagna! Creamy cauliflower pasta! A no-recipe recipe for sweet potatoes with butter and white miso!
Categories: Food

At War: I Fed My Husband a Combat Ration to Teach Him About My Military Childhood

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 17, 2019 - 5:00am
M.R.E.s, the packaged instant meals the military feeds to troops in the field, were treats I would get to have on special occasions growing up. Today, they still taste like home.
Categories: Food

Eat: A Love Letter to Homemade XO Sauce

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 17, 2019 - 5:00am
Whether on string beans or boiled noodles, this flavorful sauce elevates whatever it touches.
Categories: Food

Off the Menu: A Caviar Shop With a Tasting Menu, on the Upper East Side

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 17, 2019 - 1:57am
Marky’s Caviar, a Florida company, opens a New York branch; Joe Ogrodnek of Dover and Battersby, unveils a rooftop bar; and more restaurant news.
Categories: Food

Too Delicious Not to Publish

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 16, 2019 - 6:31pm
Alison Roman’s creamy cauliflower pasta used to be something she just made for herself. You’ll want to hoard it, too.
Categories: Food

A New Kind of Noodle Shop

NYTimes Dining and Wine - April 16, 2019 - 11:00am
Mazemen, ramen with inventive toppings but no broth, gets a restaurant of its own on the Lower East Side.
Categories: Food

Star of Your Table

Planet Cheese - April 16, 2019 - 11:00am

Ever since my husband, home baker extraordinaire, made a star bread with raspberry jam—gorgeous on the first try—I’ve wanted to make one with cheese. It took a few attempts to transition the sweet recipe to a savory one, but the shaping technique is easier than it looks. I got some whole-grain flour into the dough, which made me happy, while still maintaining a soft texture, like pull-apart dinner rolls. The filling is feta mixed with ricotta and a pinch of dried spearmint. If you want to impress the heck out of people at your Easter table, here’s your recipe.

Star Bread with Feta, Ricotta and Mint


Note: I altered the filling after we shot the images below. Your filling won’t “ooze” from the slits as much as those images depict.

Dough:

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus a little more for kneading
1 cup whole-wheat flour
1-3/4 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water (105°F to 115°F)
Pinch sugar
1-1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast
¾ cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

Filling:

6 ounces Greek or French feta, at room temperature
3 ounces (about 1/3 cup mounded) whole-milk ricotta
¼ teaspoon dried spearmint, optional

Egg wash:

1 large egg beaten with 1 teaspoon water
1 tablespoon sesame seeds

In a large bowl, whisk together the flours and salt until well blended.

Put the water and sugar in a small bowl and sprinkle the yeast on top. Let soften for 1 minute, then whisk with a fork to dissolve. Let stand until bubbly, about 10 minutes.

In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the buttermilk just enough to take the chill off. It may thicken like yogurt but don’t worry.

Add the yeast mixture, buttermilk and melted butter to the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough becomes too stiff to stir. Replace the spoon with your hand and knead/gather the dough in the bowl until it holds together in a shaggy mass. Turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, dusting with flour as needed to keep it from sticking.

Shape the dough into a ball and place it in a large bowl lightly coated with olive oil. Turn to film the dough with the oil. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let rise until doubled, about 1-1/2 hours.

Turn the dough out onto a work surface and divide it into four equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball, cover loosely with a clean dishtowel and let rest 15 minutes.

Prepare the filling: In a bowl, mash the feta, ricotta and mint (if using) with a fork until well-blended and nearly smooth.

Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit a 12- x 17-inch rimmed baking sheet (half sheet pan). Set the parchment paper on a work surface, not in the baking sheet.

With a rolling pin, flatten one ball of dough into a 10-inch round and transfer it to the parchment paper. Brush with the egg wash. With a table knife, spread one-third of the cheese filling evenly over the dough round, stopping ½ inch from the edge. Flatten another ball of dough into a 10-inch round, place it on top of the first round, brush with egg wash and spread with half of the remaining filling, stopping ½ inch from the edge. Repeat with another ball of dough, topping with the remaining filling. Flatten the remaining ball of dough into a 10-inch round and place it on top of the other rounds but do not brush it with egg wash yet.

Place a 2-inch-round cookie cutter or cardboard circle on top of the dough, in the center. With a sharp knife, cut this “layer cake” of dough into 16 equal pieces, stopping just short of the edge of the cookie cutter. Using both hands, pick up 2 adjacent pieces—one in each hand—and twist them away from each other, twisting a full 360 degrees. Bring the ends together and press gently to connect them. Repeat with the remaining pieces, 2 at a time, until you have worked all the way around and have eight “points” of a star. Remove the cookie cutter. With a rimless baking sheet or pizza peel, transfer the bread, still on the parchment, to the rimmed baking sheet.

Cover the bread lightly with a dish towel and let rise until puffy, about 1-1/2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Just before baking, brush the bread all over with egg wash and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake until nicely browned, 23 to 25 minutes. Use a rimless baking sheet or pizza peel to transfer the bread, still on the parchment, to a rack to cool.

Serve the bread warm, not hot.

Serves 8

Categories: Food